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There are two big trends in men’s cuts at the moment and they’re polar opposites. One style is long, hitting around the collar bone or shoulder with natural texture and a substantial scruff. The other is tight and tailored, with neatly barbered edges, a clean shaven face, and a polished surface. You could, of course, mix and match from these looks, but if you’ve been wearing a retro cut and hipster beard for a while, it might be time for a change. Read on to learn more about achieving and maintaining each look.

Dapper Look: Take sides and back short with a clipper or shear, creating a square shape with neatly tailored edges. Layer top evenly, creating a strong disconnection with sides. Style with gel or pomade for a controlled, glossy finish. Trim every 4-5 weeks to keep shape clean.

Rugged Look: Create a loose but structured shape by layering hair into a square shape with shears or a razor, with a hanging length that hits between collarbone and shoulder. Use curl definer to add structure to natural texture. Trim every 6-8 weeks to maintain.

Special thanks to Laura Martin for this post. Laura is a professional hair stylist, former senior educator at ARROJO cosmetology school, and a creative non-fiction MFA student at Georgia College, Milledgeville, GA

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