Regarded as the world’s best razor-cutter, Nick Arrojo’s pioneering work with the straightedge blade has led to new hairdressing techniques, and the sculpture of looks with more softness and fluidity than their older, more structured cousins. For many, however, the razor cut is still a mystery. Today, Nick unravels the enigma of this creative and versatile tool…
The classes I teach tell me more and more hairdressers are cutting with a razor instead of scissors. I can understand why. It is an excellent tool to create modern, low-maintenance hairstyles. But I still see clients who get scared when they see the straightedge blade. There are some misconceptions; clients sometimes think it will leave their hair ‘shredded’ rather than smooth or textured. It is the Indian not the arrow. Use the tool correctly and the results are fantastic. Here’s some good things to know when considering whether or not to get a razor-cut.
The Razor, being so sharp, ‘melts’ the hair away is a much softer fashion that the blunt cutting lines of a scissor.
This is great for enabling what I term ‘swing and movement.’ Essentially the style will feature natural-looking motion –– it will swing and move in an organic way. It is harder to make scissor cuts have the same action.
A related benefit is what I call the modern, jagged line. Again, it comes from the softness and fluidity that the razor empowers. With a scissor cut, the end of the line is usually blunt and hard. Now we can create sculptured, distressed ends.
A lot of modern cuts feature the disheveled elegance of a lived-in look. You know the ones: There is textural separation, the wearer looks like they just rolled out of bed. To manufacture this look, the interior of the cut is texturized. The best way to do it effectively is with a razor.
If you have, thick unruly hair the razor is great for you. It’s great for getting into the interior and lightening the load.