As a full time educator at ARROJO cosmetology school I draw a lot of inspiration from my students. This week, my class presented papers they had written on influential stylists, industry greats who have have had a significant impact on the world of hairdressing. One of the students wrote about the famous colorist David Adams. In his paper, he quoted Adams talking tobehindthechair.com about a red he had created with a color layering technique. “It was like painting a wall with patches of light paint and patches of dark paint and washing over the entire thing with copper,” he said. I loved the idea of uniting lights and darks with a wash of tone and decided to try it out on a live model. Katie, the pictured model, is a natural blonde who had some grown out highlights and was looking for more dimension and shimmer. I wove three cool blonde shades through her base to add depth then added an all over golden peach glaze. The end result is multifaceted and cohesive and the delicate blush tone makes her blue eyes pop. Click the style notes for more information about the technique and formulas. –– Laura Martin
Technique: Isolate the bang section and the crown area. Beginning at the natural part, alternate formulas A, B and C in mid sized weaves, working parallel to the parting. Formula A should be your first foil on each side and your last foil at the hairline. Then, beginning at the top of the crown, apply the same three colors, working in woven horizontal sections, to the top of the occipital bone. In the fringe, work on a slight diagonal, parallel to the natural growth pattern, applying formulas in thin slices, starting with color A and ending with color C. Process for 45 minutes, shampoo, and towel dry. Apply formula D all over the head and process for up to 20 minutes, until desired tone is achieved.
Formulas: (on starting level 7)
A. Goldwell Topchic 11SV Highlift Blonde with 40 Volume
B. Goldwell Topchic 1 part 8NP + 1 part 10P with 30 Volume
C. Goldwell Topchic 7SB with 10 Volume
D. Golwell Colorance 4 parts 9GB + 1 part 9 KG with Colorance Acid Lotion
Special thanks to Laura Martin, senior educator at ARROJO cosmetology school, for sharing professional hairstyling advice with Style Noted